Milkweed is critical for Monarch butterflies and their life cycle. Female Monarchs lay their eggs only on milkweed, and their caterpillars feed exclusively on it. This special relationship is essential to the survival of Monarchs. A decline in milkweed in fields and farms has led to a significant decrease in Monarch populations. If you have the space, consider planting some milkweed - there are several different types to choose from.
Further explanation on the importance of milkweed:
Common Milkweed (Asclipias syriaca)
Common Milkweed can be planted from seed in the fall or as a live plant in spring or summer. It grows best in full sun. Common Milkweed has large, wide leaves, which makes it easier to
locate eggs and provides ample food for your caterpillars. It can grow quite tall - mine reach at least 6 feet by fall - and will return each year on its own. Be careful to collect the seed
pods so they don’t spread unless you have plenty of space.
Swamp Milkweed (Asclepias incarnata)
Swamp Milkweed is a smaller variety with narrower leaves and beautiful pink flowers. It typically grows 3–4 feet tall. As the name suggests, it thrives in muddy or wet areas, such as near water. I grow mine alongside my Common Milkweed.
Locating eggs can be more challenging on Swamp Milkweed, as there are more leaves to inspect. Caterpillars consume the smaller leaves quickly, but it still serves as a valuable food source.
Prarie Milkweed (Asclepias sullivantii)
Prairie Milkweed is similar to Common Milkweed, with broader leaves, though it doesn’t grow quite as tall. It also produces lovely pink flowers and makes a great addition to your Monarch habitat.
BE VERY CAREFUL THAT NONE OF YOUR PLANTS HAVE BEEN SPRAYED AT A NURSERY OR BY YOU. This includes typical yard mosquito sprays. Sprays can - and often do - harm or kill Monarch caterpillars.
Although Monarchs are totally dependent on milkweed for egg-laying and caterpillar development, adult butterflies rely on nectar flowers for energy - especially during migration. Not all flowers produce nectar, so it’s important to choose the right ones. Here are some popular nectar-rich options to mix into your garden:
With this combination of milkweed and nectar flowers, you’ll create a beautiful and essential oasis for Monarchs to visit.
Monarch butterflies are susceptible to a number of health issues, many of which can’t be cured once symptoms appear. The list below is meant to serve as a risk-awarness guide. But instead of focusing on how to treat a sick monarch, it’s going to be far more effective if you take a proactive approach — learn about the potential threats out there and be consistent in the steps you take to reduce the risks.
Why am I talking about this now?
While it doesn't happen often, a butterfly or caterpillar may become infected, injured, or fail to develop properly. Part of raising Monarchs responsibly means knowing how to respond when there are health issues involved. If you release a sick, diseased butterfly into the wild, it can spread illness to the broader monarch population. If a monarch's wings are so damaged that it cannot fly, it's unlikely to survive in the wild and may endure unnecessay suffering.
Taking this step is an act of care — for both the one that’s suffering and the many others you'll help by preventing the spread of disease.
Best for: caterpillars, chrysalides, or butterflies. This method is widely used by researchers and minimizes stress or suffering.
Best for: emergencies or when a butterfly is suffering and you cannot wait. It’s instant, but understandably hard for some. It’s okay to choose what feels manageable.
ADMISSION:
I prefer the quicker method when it's necessary to dispose of one of these creatures. But I admit I'm too squimish to do the stomping myself - my husband gets drafted for that job.
While raising Monarch butterflies can be fun, it also comes with responsibilities for the health and safety of butterflies you've taken into your care. Gathering the proper equipment and understanding what’s needed ahead of time helps give captive Monarchs the best possible start.
It's important to understand the life cycle so that you are prepared for the collecting, feeding, transformation, and releasing stages. The Monarch butterfly life cycle – like all butterflies – has four distinct stages: the egg, larva (caterpillar), pupa (the chrysalis), and adult (butterfly). Each stage is dramatically different, and watching the transformation is completely fascinating.
NOTE:
When this all begins depends on where you live and where the flight path is strongest. I generally do not see my first Monarch in the central Midwest until early to mid-June.
By then, my flowers are at least starting to bloom, so they have some food to restore their energy.
Monarch females lay their eggs on the undersides of milkweed leaves, which will be the caterpillar’s sole food source. The eggs are small, light yellow to white, and perfectly spherical. There will be other insect eggs on your milkweed, so be sure to collect only the tiny, round little pearls (that’s what I call them). The egg stage lasts about four days.
The caterpillar emerges from the egg and looks like a small black dot. It immediately begins to feed on milkweed leaves leaving tiny holes. They grow rapidly through five shedding stages. Each stage is a period between molts as the caterpillar grows too large for its current skin. The entire process takes about 10 to 14 days.
Once fully grown, the caterpillar attaches itself to a stem or stick (or the top of your rearing container) by means of a "silk button" it has spun. The caterpillar will then hang upside down in their J Pose, preparing for transformation. What happens next is hard to explain, but you do have to watch it! The caterpillar will begin to contract and wiggle in the attempt to shed its final outer skin - and what is inside can only be described as a bright green blob. That blob will then scrunch itself up into the traditional shape of the Monarch chrysalis and a hardened outer covering forms within 24 hours.
In its chrysalis state, the monarch will undergo a dramatic transformation. At the start, the chrysalis is bright green and has several beautiful gold markings on it. You'll know when it's nearly time for emergence because the chrysalis will lose its green color and you’ll be able to see black and orange wings through the transparent outer covering. The chrysalis stage can last 9 to 15 days.
Chrysalis or Cocoon - what's the difference?
A chrysalis and a cocoon are very different. Yes, both structures serve as protiven casings during the transformation stage. But butterflies, after their final molting, typically form a hardened, shell-like structure (the cyrysalis) directly from their last larval skin. Whereas moths will spin a selken cocoon around themselves.
The adult butterfly emerges from the bottom of the chrysalis shell, slowly sliding out. It first appears as a large black abdomen with small, crumpled wings. It will then hang for about 24 hours, slowly pumping fluid from its abdomen into its wings. The butterfly should not be touched or released during this process. As the wings gradually dry and harden, the butterfly becomes ready to take flight. Adult Monarchs feed on nectar from various flowers and mate almost immediately, starting the cycle all over again.
Monarchs go through four generations each year, with the final generation (emerging in the fall) migrating to overwintering sites in Mexico and California. They will eventually return north in the following spring to lay eggs and start the cycle again. Monarchs born during the summer breeding season live only about 2 to 6 weeks.
Can you spot the difference? Probably the quickest way to tell the sex of an adult Monarch butterfly is to focus on the bottom hind wings. Males have small, black, oval-shaped spots that are not present on females. Male monarchs also tend to have thinner veins on their wings compared to females. Interesting facts I picked up early in my Monarch journey.
Raising Monarchs is a fun activity, but it's also a learning process - especially if you're a beginner. If you're just starting out, the volume of information and instruction on raising Monarch butterflies can feel a little overwhelming. Below are some beginner-friendly tips that might help you stay organized, engaged, and confident in your new venture.
DOCUMENT WITH PHOTOS
Take photos of the same caterpillar throughout the process and create a mini time-lapse or slideshow. It’s a perfect way to see how subtle changes add up — and makes a great visual tool for sharing the experience with others.
NAMING YOUR CATS
Giving your caterpillars names or numbers helps in remembering which caterpillar is at what stage. Plus it makes documenting easier.
DATING FINAL STAGES
If you have multiple caterpillars entering the chrysalis stage, it helps to pin a paper date near them of when it happened... helps you to estimate the individual dates for emerging butterflies.
PERSONALITY QUIRKS
Not all caterpillars behave the same. Some are wanderers and explorers. Some are aggressive eaters. Some seem shy. Recording these little quirks builds a sense of connection and makes the process less like a science experiment and more like a shared adventure.
VIDEO THE STAGES
There is nothing more fascinating and unique as a caterpillar going through their stages. Even though most people understand and have knowledge of butterflies, I’m still amazed at how many haven’t seen the actual process.
When you see your caterpillar go into their J pose, you know the process of morphing into a chrysalis is coming soon, so keep an eye on them. It happens so fast. Also, once you know the anticipated emerging date, keep an eye on them to catch them coming out of the chrysalis.
OVERTHINKING SETUPS
Many beginners feel they need all the perfect equipment. You don’t need elaborate supplies to be successful. In reality, a clean, breathable nursery container, fresh milkweed, a netted emerging enclosure and some attention are enough to succeed. Starting small while learning the ropes makes sense.
STARTING LATE/SMALL
If you discover Monarch eggs mid-season or only raise one in a container, that’s perfectly fine. You are learning the process, and your knowledge will grow. There’s no official starting point either... if you miss the first wave of butterflies, start with the next.
MISTAKES & MISSTEPS
If something goes wrong, or unexpected, you’ll probably remember it more clearly than any caution read from a manual. Every misstep becomes experience for the next time.
WHAT I LEARNED
Keep a "What I Learned" list and jot down the moments when you realized something could have been done better - or easier. It takes the pressure off getting everything right this time and gives you confidence for next season.
THINGS HAPPEN
Not all outcomes are in your control. Sometimes a found caterpillar may have already been exposed to something fatal (why I generally bring eggs inside). Or a chrysalis doesn't form right. Or an adult butterfly emerges with deformed wings. These are occurances in nature, too. When issues are present, not even attentive care can always change the result.
My butterfly island.
An abundance of milkweed.
Egg and baby cat.
Certified Monarch Waystation
Emergence of adult Monarch butterfly.
Eggs on milkweed.
Monarch caterpillars doing their thing.
Monarch chrysalis stage.
Gathering the basic equipment.
Nurseries exposed to natural, indirect sunlight.
Prepare for those hungry cats.
Clean and disinfect used containers and equipment.
Infected chrysalis.
Young Monarch caterpillars surrounded by aphids.
Male Monarch
Female Monarch
